WHALE WATCHING IN KENYA: HAPPENING NOW IN WATAMU

From July to September, humpback whales pass just offshore from Watamu. Discover how Hemingways Watamu offers front-row access to one of nature’s most extraordinary, and little-known, spectacles.

Each year between July and September, the calm, reef-protected waters of Watamu play host to a remarkable natural event: the migration of humpback whales along Kenya’s Indian Ocean coastline. And it’s happening now.

While Kenya is globally recognized for its land-based safaris, few realize it is also home to one of the longest whale migrations on earth. From the veranda of your suite at Hemingways Watamu, or aboard a traditional dhow, you may witness whales breaching, tail-slapping or gliding through the warm waters, often alongside their calves.

Why Watamu?

Watamu’s location within a designated Marine National Park makes it one of the most peaceful and respectful places to observe whales in East Africa. Calm seas, high visibility and minimal commercial boat traffic offer ideal conditions for marine wildlife, and for those hoping to witness it.

Its proximity to the equatorial calving grounds, combined with sheltered bays and consistent sea temperatures (25–28°C), makes Watamu a key resting and breeding zone for humpback whales each year. Mothers with newborn calves often stay for several weeks before returning south.

The Journey of the Humpback Whale

Humpback whales seen off the coast of Kenya are part of the Southwest Indian Ocean population. Their journey begins thousands of kilometres away, in the cold, nutrient-rich waters of the Southern Ocean near Antarctica, often around the Crozet or Kerguelen Islands.

As winter sets in, they head north on a mission hardwired by instinct: to reach warmer, calmer waters to mate, give birth and nurse their young. Travelling at an average speed of 4 to 8 km/h and covering up to 160 kilometres per day, the full migration to East Africa takes around four to six weeks of steady movement. Most whales begin this voyage in late May or early June, arriving along Kenya’s coastline by late June or July.

Their route passes through deep Indian Ocean waters, sometimes skirting the offshore zones of Mozambique, Madagascar and Tanzania, before reaching the calm shallows of Watamu. This is the northernmost point of their migration corridor, and one of the quietest.

Once here, many whales, especially mothers with calves, will stay in the area for several weeks, often until late September or early October, before retracing their route back to Antarctica to feed during the austral summer.

 Did you know?

• Each humpback whales’ tail (fluke) is uniquely patterned, like a fingerprint
• Males are the only ones who sing, often repeating the same song for hours
• Some whales spotted off Watamu were likely born here decades earlier, returning to calve in the same waters

How to Experience It

Hemingways Watamu offers private and small-group whale watching excursions through trusted marine guides, all certified to operate ethically within the Watamu Marine National Park.

Departure is typically early in the morning when sea conditions are calmest. Excursions last around two to three hours, with sightings that may include humpback whales, dolphins, turtles and flying fish. The experience is suitable for couples, families and nature lovers, with private charters available on request.

Our concierge team will gladly make all arrangements to ensure a seamless and respectful experience, leaving you free to simply take it all in.

Returning to Shore

After your morning on the water, return to the quiet rhythm of Hemingways Watamu. Relax by the pool, enjoy a light lunch of fresh seafood, or unwind with a coastal-inspired massage at the spa.

Whether you’re seeking a once-in-a-lifetime wildlife encounter or a restorative coastal escape, whale season at Hemingways Watamu offers a rare opportunity to witness the ocean at its most alive, and to reconnect with nature in a place that feels untouched by time.